One of the most interesting experiences that we have had during our international travels has been to stay at family and boutique hotels. Admittedly, staying at family or boutique hotels is a gamble, because at chain or commercial hotels, you know what you are getting … most of the time.
In 2006, when we were in Portugal, we stayed at two different hotels: a small boutique hotel, that I found on Frommer’s and a Portuguese chain, Dom Pedro. The Portuguese chain was an accident, we needed a room and I relaxed my qualifications. This hotel was wonderful. The staff was extremely friendly and helpful. They treated us as if we were special. The attitude was definitely not “give us your money and leave us alone.” The staff helped to arrange transportation and even exchanged American Express Traveler’s Cheques for Euros. Service was great, the room was large [even by U.S. standards]. We even had a tub and a shower that didn’t get water all over the floor. We are still learning this European art of taking a shower without getting water all over the floor.
So, after Dom Pedro, we wondered what our experience would be in a boutique hotel. Despite the excellence of our experience at the hotel, it did not have the quaint small atmosphere of a boutique hotel. So off to our boutique hotel. Our trip from the airport should have been a sign. I asked our driver, in my bad Portuguese, to take us to our hotel. He was very friendly and offered to help me with some phrases. He also told us that our hotel was very nice and that it was in the diplomat district. We thought good. So, we arrive at our hotel and the driver wants 50 €! He overcharged us about 3 times what it should have cost. Instead of arguing, I pay him the money … no, he did not get a tip! By the way, he took us to the wrong hotel. Fortunately, our hotel was across the street and a block or two from where he left us.
Okay, to be fair to this boutique hotel, it was quaint and charming and the dining room and dinner was very good. The courtyard was beautiful. Now, the second sign was the bellhop, I think that he was probably alive for the burning of Lisboa … the first one. I felt terrible about him carrying our three bags, which were loaded with wine and gifts, but he insisted and I acquiesced. I soon learned what provincial and historic meant for this hotel … small room, smaller bathroom, cold and drab, moderately comfortable beds, and a slight mildew and musky odor. Too bad I didn’t have my digital camera … I was still using my SLR film camera.
I know I sound harsh in my assessment of York House and I mean to sound harsh, because I would not pay money to stay there again. But, the hotel did not ruin our trip. 
Did this experience deter me from making reservations at boutique hotel? Absolutely not. I consider these boutique hotels part of the travel experience … the local culture and practices. Now, at home, in the United States, I tend to always stay in chain hotels … my preference is the Hilton. Not that there are not regional differences in the U.S., but I tend not to think of my lodging as part of my travel experience in the U.S.
So far, this has been one of my funkiest experiences, but I’m sure there will be others … Quito, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands are next … December 2007.